A woman's hardy garden — Reading Notes

A Gardener’s Calendar of Bloom

Ely organizes her advice around the flowering calendar, giving precise dates for each plant’s performance. For example, she notes that Aquilegia blooms from “tenth of May to first week in June,” while Phlox flowers from “early July until killed by frost.” This attention to timing is not merely descriptive; it shapes her planting strategies. She advises cutting down Rudbeckia tops after blooming to encourage a second crop in October. The book’s list of hardy perennials includes height, colour, and blooming period for each species, making it a reference tool for planning continuous colour. Ely’s calendar is built from direct observation, not from generic horticultural tables.

Soil, Staking, and Second Crops

Ely’s practical instructions reveal a hands-on approach to garden maintenance. She warns that Rudbeckia “must be staked, or when heavy with blossoms they will blow down.” For Phlox, she recommends cutting off finished flower heads to extend bloom until frost. Her method for biennials like Foxgloves and Canterbury Bells involves sowing in early April, transplanting in July to follow early vegetables, and using a layer of manure in trenches. These details show a gardener who manages space and labour efficiently, treating the vegetable garden as a nursery for ornamental plants. The emphasis on second crops and division every other year reflects a frugal, productive mindset.

The Photographic Record

The book’s illustrations, taken by Professor C. F. Chandler in Ely’s own garden, serve as visual evidence of her methods. Captions include specific dates—such as “September twenty-ninth” for garden gate with gourds and “June sixth” for a clump of Valerian—linking the photographs to the seasonal advice in the text. These images are not decorative; they document actual plant growth, garden structures like the rose arch, and the effects of her cultivation techniques. The frontispiece, a water-colour sketch by George B. Bartholomew, contrasts with Chandler’s photographs, but both reinforce the book’s claim to be grounded in a real, working garden.

Ely’s book is best read as a companion for the working gardener, not a theoretical treatise. Her advice is specific enough to follow directly: she tells you when to sow, how deep to trench, and which plants need staking. The photographs offer a rare glimpse into an early twentieth-century American garden. Readers will find most value by taking Ely’s calendar and lists to their own plots, testing her observations against local conditions.