A-B-C of Gardening — Reading Notes

Soil Work and Fertilizer

Rexford insists on thorough soil preparation: spade to a foot deep, then work the soil 'over and over' until pulverized. He recommends well-rotted cow manure as ideal but offers bone meal as a substitute for city dwellers. The amount is given by teacup per yard square, adjusted by soil condition. He acknowledges that 'no two soils are exactly alike,' leaving room for the gardener's judgment. This emphasis on soil texture and fertility recurs throughout the excerpts, establishing a foundation for plant health.

Seasonal Timing and Sowing

Timing is critical: at the North, hardy seeds go in around mid-May, tender ones wait until June. Rexford warns against deep furrows made with a hoe-handle, which can bury fine seed too deeply. Instead, he advocates scattering seed on the surface. The advice is tied to weather conditions—wait until frost danger is past and the ground is warm for 'prompt germination.' This seasonal awareness structures the book's chapters, from spring work to midsummer care and winter preparation.

Watering and Winter Care

Watering should be governed by the soil's appearance, not a fixed schedule. Dormant plants need little water; actively growing ones need more. Rexford warns against superficial watering that only wets the surface, urging enough to moisten the entire pot. He advises a 'stated time' for watering, letting the soil's dry look dictate the amount. This practical rule extends to winter window-gardens, where dry indoor air and high temperatures favor pests like red spider.

Insect Enemies and Tobacco Baths

Rexford devotes a chapter to insect warfare, focusing on aphis (plant-louse) and red spider. He describes aphis as sucking the plant's 'life-blood' and propagating rapidly. His remedy is nicoticide, a tobacco extract sprayed on plants, which kills on contact. For red spider, he advises inspecting fallen leaves for tiny webs and yellowing leaves for red specks. He recommends preventive tobacco baths, finding it 'easier to keep the enemy away than to rout it.' The tone is pragmatic, with no alarmism.

Rexford's manual is best read as a companion for the growing season, not a one-sitting treatise. The chapters are short and self-contained, allowing the gardener to dip into specific topics like window-boxes or bulb planting as needed. His reliance on observation—watching plants, testing soil, checking for pests—makes the book a practical tool rather than a theoretical guide. Readers will find the most value by applying his methods to their own gardens and adjusting based on local conditions.