A Description of the Bar-and-Frame-Hive With an Abstract of Wildman's Complete Guide for the Management of Bees Throughout the Year — A Closer Reading
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A DESCRIPTION OF THE BAR-AND-FRAME-HIVE,
W. AUGUSTUS MUNN, ESQ.
With an Abstract of Wildman's Complete Guide for the Management of Bees Throughout the Year.
Ipsa autem, seu corticibus tibi suta cavatis, Seu lento fuerint alvearia vimine texta, Angustos habeant aditus; nam frigore mella Cogit hiems, eademque calor liquefacta remittit.
Virgil, _G. lib._ iv.
London: John Van Voorst, Paternoster Row. M.DCCC.XLIV.
London Printed by S. & J. Bentley, Wilson, and Fley, Bangor House, Shoe Lane.
Having been frequently requested to explain the use of the _bar-and-frame-hive_, in the management of bees, I have been induced to print the following pamphlet, to point out the advantages this new hive possesses over the common ones.
I have added extracts from various authorities to show the importance of transporting bees for a change of pasturage, and thus prolonging the honey harvest. Regarding the natural history of the bee, I have merely stated a few of the leading facts connected with that interesting subject, drawn from Wildman's Book on Bee-management.
_London, April, 1844._
EXPLANATION OF THE PLATE.
A B C D E F and E F, the oblong box as shown in fig. 1, Plate I.
A B C D, the top lid of the oblong box; G H, the half of it made to fall back, and supported at an angle by the hinges, _h h_; _l_, the upper part of the lock of the box; _i k_, the two gable ends of the roof; _i_, the perforated zinc shown as secured in a triangular frame; and _k_, the outside appearance of the ventilator.
Q Q, the two quadrants, supporting the table, I J, which is formed by the side of the box, A C E E, being let down; _a a a_, &c., fifteen holes made to receive the back bolt, _m_, of the observation-frame, Z; _b b_, two bolts to fasten into the holes, _c_ and _d_, when the table I J, is closed, _f_, being the other part of the lock.
T, one of the handles of the box (the other not seen).
U, one of the blocks (the other not shown) to keep the bottom of the box from the ground, when the four legs L L L L, are unscrewed from the four corners of the box.
X X B D, the front of the box; _e_, the alighting board, four inches wide, extending the whole length from F to F; X _2_, shows a small ledge to keep the wet from entering the bee-box, and X I, one of the slides _s_, drawn out, and extending beyond the end of the box; the other half slide, _s_, on the _left_ hand side, not drawn out in the sketch, the part under X 1, shows the opening for the ingress and egress of the bees.
R, one of the two pieces of red cedar at the inside of the box, fixed at the ends, E F. E F. The Q Q, quadrants being made to work between the red cedar and the outer case or box; _v v_, the fillet fixed in the length of the box, on a level with the tops of red cedar; _c d_, the holes for the bolts _b b_, in the table I J.
W W, pieces of perforated zinc laid upon the tops of the bee-frames resting on the fillets, _v v_.
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, six of the 15 grooves, half an inch deep, 9-1/2 long, and 1-1/2 of an inch broad, formed on the floor-board: the holes shown in the floor-board above the figures being made for the reception of the two pins, _a b_, in the observation-frame. No. 8, shows the "division-frame" run into the eighth groove of the floor-board, and No. 14 and 15, the bee-frames run into their respective grooves, and the 1-1/8 of an inch openings in the back closed by the slips of tin, _q q q q_, &c.
Y Y, the bar of mahogany with corresponding grooves, X X X X, &c. to those on the floor-board, at 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, and 15-2/8 holes for the top bolt, _r_, of the observation-frame, Z, to fix into. _t, t, t_, the screw nuts at the backs of the bee-frames, &c., for the screw at the end of the spindle, S, to work into, and thus hold and draw out of the grooves the bee-frames; _w_, the bee-frame containing comb and bees, drawn partly into the observation-frame, Z.
A DESCRIPTION OF THE BAR-AND-FRAME-HIVE.
THE BAR-AND-FRAME-HIVE.
By first giving a general description of the "bar-and-frame-hive," the details of its construction can be better explained afterwards.
An oblong box is formed of well seasoned wood of an inch in thickness, about thirty inches long, sixteen inches high, and twelve inches broad; but the size may be varied to suit the convenience or taste of different apiarians. Instead of the lid of the box being flat, it is made in the shape of the roof of a cottage, and with projecting eaves to throw off the wet more effectually. One of the long sides of the box is constructed to open with hinges, and to hang on a level with the _bottom_ of the box, and is held up by means of two quadrants. As many grooves, half of an inch broad, half an inch deep, and about 9-1/2 inches long, are formed, 1-1/8 of an inch apart, in the inside of the bottom of the box as its length will admit.
In the other side, a long half inch slip is cut for the egress and ingress of the bees, having a piece of wood about an inch thick, and four inches wide, fastened on the outside, just under the opening, to form the alighting board for them.
At the top, of the side of the box which is made to let down, a four inch piece of mahogany the length of the inside of the box is secured in, having corresponding grooves formed, half an inch broad, 1-1/8 of an inch deep, and half an inch apart, to those made in the bottom of the box, leaving just _twelve_ inches between the bottom grooves and the upper bar grooves.
When the four legs are screwed into the four corners of the box, the small "bee-house" is ready for the reception of the "bee-frames" and the bees. The "bee-frames" are made of half inch mahogany, being twelve inches high, nine inches long, and not more than half of an inch broad, so that these frames will fit into the box, sliding into fifteen grooves formed on the bottom, and kept securely in their places by the upper grooves in the mahogany bar.
When the fifteen, or whatever number of the bee-frames intended to be used, have been run into the grooves, sheets of perforated zinc are placed on the tops of them; the 1-1/8 of an inch openings at the backs of the frames being closed with slips of tin.
One of the bee-frames is made solid, with sheets of zinc being fixed in it; this frame can then be used as a divider between any number of the bee-frames, and thus form the box into two compartments, either to augment or diminish the space in the box according to the size of the swarm, or the increasing wants of the bees for more room.
The bees are then introduced into the hive (having first closed the backs of the bee-frames with the slips of tin, and fastened the side lid of the box against them, and also removed one of the sheets of perforated zinc from the tops of the bee-frames) by dislodging the bees from the straw-hive in which they had been previously collected, or shaken from the boughs of the tree, where they may have settled, so as to fall upon the tops of the frames within the box; when the bees have all congregated within the bee-frames by crawling through the open spaces at the top, the perforated sheet of zinc is placed over them; the bees can then only escape through the long slip or entrance which was made for them in the front of the box.
The top lid can be closed and locked, when the bees will be secure from the gaze of the inquisitive, or the bad intentions of thieves.
Before I proceed to give any directions for the construction of the "bar-and-frame-hive" I am _anxious_ to _warn_ all amateur carpenters, and those who delight to superintend the labours of a "cheap working country carpenter," against the fatal error of using unseasoned wood; for, unless the "bottom board" and the "bee-frames" are made of mahogany, or some well-seasoned, hard, or close-grained wood, the advantages of the bar and frame-hive will be quite destroyed, as the great object is to have the bee-frames to slide in and out of the grooves with the _greatest facility_. Throughout the whole of the making of the hive or box, no glue should be used, unless further secured with small SCREWS OR NAILS.[1]
[Footnote 1: Mr. John Milton of No. 10, Great Marylebone-street, has some well constructed bar and frame bee-hives of various prices.]
The oblong box, A B C D, E F and E F (Plate I, fig. 1), is to be made of well-seasoned poplar, fir, or deal, of an inch in thickness; the inside dimensions are 28 inches and 5/8 of an inch long from A to C, 10-1/2 inches broad from A to B, and sixteen inches deep from A to E.
The top lid A B C D is formed in the shape of a common roof, and made to project an inch, before, behind, and at the two gable ends, like the eaves of a cottage to throw off the wet.
The half of this roof G H, is made to open and fall back with hinges _h h_.
The two gable ends of the roof have holes cut in them, _i, k_, to admit the circulation of air; and secured with perforated zinc withinside to prevent the intrusion of wasps, or any other enemies to bees; the gable marked _i_, shows the perforated zinc framed into the gable, and _k_ the outside appearance of the ventilator.
The side of the box marked A C E E, is made to let down and form a table I J, hung on hinges P P, and supported by the quadrants Q Q, one inch _below the level of the bottom board_.
Two handles are fixed in the ends of the box, one shown in the sketch at T.
Two blocks of wood are screwed on the bottom of the box (one shown at U) to keep it off the ground, &c., when the four legs, L L L L, at the four corners of the box are unscrewed for the convenience of packing, &c. In the opposite side or front of the box at X X, is fixed a piece of board _e_, four inches broad, and an inch thick, extending the whole length from F F; this is secured at an angle with the bottom of the box, so as to form a slightly inclined plain _e_, for the alighting board, which would be always dry for the bees to land upon. A half inch opening is made from F to F, just above the alighting board, for the ingress and egress of the bees. Slides are made _s s_, to regulate the extent of the openings, or to entirely close the entrance to the box; these slides can be drawn out when it is necessary to clean the bottom board, &c.
Within-side the box, two pieces of red cedar of half an inch in thickness, 12-1/8 inches long, 9-1/2 inches broad, are nailed on to each end at E F, and E F (one of the pieces of red cedar shown at R). The quadrants, Q Q, being made to work between them and the outer case. A fillet, _v v_, is fastened on a level with the tops of the two pieces of red cedar, to form a ledge of about a 1/4 of an inch all round, to support the sheets of perforated zinc, as shown at W W.
Sixteen pieces of mahogany, 1-1/8 of an inch broad, and half an inch deep, are to be screwed to the mahogany floor board, commencing against the piece of red cedar, R, and leaving a space between each piece, half of an inch, and finishing against the other piece of red cedar with the last; there will then be formed fifteen grooves, half of an inch in width, half an inch in depth, and 9-1/2 inches long on the floor-board as shown at 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
A bar of mahogany, Y Y, about two inches square, having grooves, X X X X, &c., corresponding to those on the floor-board, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, &c., is let in, and fastened between A and C, having a clear space of twelve inches between the floor-board, and this top bar; the object of these grooves being to receive, and keep steadily in their places, the fifteen bee-frames, when introduced into them.
The "bee-frames" are made of mahogany, nine inches long, twelve inches high, and half an inch broad. Each frame is _dove-tailed_ to make it strong at the angles, and to keep it true; the upper part is formed of one inch mahogany, and _bevelled_ off (as the carpenters call it) to the eighth of an inch, in the centre, as shown at _a_, fig. 1: on the two sides of this triangular bar, _b b_, pieces of glass, extending the length of the bar, are fixed with red lead. The two sides of the frame, _d, d_, are to increase in size, from half an inch at the top, to 1-1/2 inches at the bottom. The bottom piece, _c_, is half an inch in depth. The back of each frame has a piece of tin, about the thickness of a card, fixed on it, of the exact size, viz. twelve inches long, and half an inch broad, _e, e_. In the centre of the back of each frame, _f_, a screw-nut is let in, which is made to fit a screw at the end of a long spindle, S, Plate I, fig. 1. This spindle with a handle, Z, will screw equally well into the screw-nuts of the fifteen bee-frames and division-frame. The use of this spindle being, to draw in and out of the grooves the fifteen bee-frames when required. When the bee-frames have been put into the grooves in the box, slips of tin about thirteen inches long, and and a half broad, are slipped into their backs (being run in between the backs of the bee-frames, and the pieces of thin tin fixed upon them), to close the 1-1/8 of an inch openings. And three or four sheets of perforated zinc are laid upon the tops of the bee-frames, resting on the fillets. Thus, then, when a swarm of bees has been introduced into this box, the bees have to build their combs within the fifteen bee-frames, or whatever number may have been run into the grooves for that purpose. The bees cannot escape from above the frames, as the sheets of perforated zinc prevent them, nor from the 1-1/8 of an inch openings at the backs of the frames, as they have been closed with the slips of tin; the only open part being the long narrow slip, just above the alighting board, which was originally left for their ingress and egress.
The division-frame is made of half inch mahogany, twelve inches high, 9-1/2 long, and half of an inch broad. So that it will run into any of the grooves formed for the bee-frames; but made to fit close to the box at the end, by means of a slip of wood, C C, fig. 2, to prevent the bees crawling between the frame and the outer-box, as they can do round the bee-frames.
The division-frame itself is closed by having two sheets of zinc run into it as shown in fig. 2, the one marked _b b b b_, and partly drawn out, being of solid sheet zinc; and _a a_, the other in the frame, of perforated zinc; _d_, being the screw-nut (like those in the bee-frames) by means of which it can be drawn out into the observation-frame, &c. Thus, wherever this division-frame is run into the bee-box, (except of course at No. 1, and No. 15 grooves) it cuts off all communication with the bee-frames on the right or left of it; and two colonies of bees may be kept in the same box, and still have distinct frames to work upon, and separate entrances, &c.
If then bees have been put into one of the bar-and-frame-hives, and sufficient time has been given them to build their combs within "the bee-frames," the frames with their contents can be drawn out into the "observation-frame," (which will be more fully described) whenever it is wished to examine the bees, &c., as the 1-1/8 of an inch spaces between the grooves will allow of a sufficient distance to be preserved, between the lateral surfaces of the perpendicular combs formed in the "bee-frames," and thus permit them to slide by each other with facility.
The "observation-frame," fig. 3, is a mahogany frame, fourteen inches high, eleven inches long, and about four inches wide, having a single groove half an inch deep, and half an inch broad, running within its whole length of eleven inches. The two largest sides have panes of glass fixed in them with small brads. The top, bottom, and one end (this end forming the back) of this frame, are made of solid wood; the back having a small hole, _f_, 2/8 of an inch in diameter in the middle, to allow the spindle before mentioned to pass through it. The end which forms the front of the frame is open, so that any one of the bee-frames can be run into the observation-frame, but may be closed by a piece of tin (_d_) being slipt into the small grooves at _c c_. The observation-frame has two pins, _a, b_, to fit into the 2/8 holes made along the bottom board of the bee-box, shown by the figures, 1, 2, 3, &c., see Plate I, fig. 1, and also two small bolts _r_ and _m_; _r_, the upper one to fix into the holes above X X X, &c., in the mahogany bar; (but this bolt is only used during the operation of drawing out the bee-frames into the observation frame); and the other bolt _m_ at the back of the frame, to fasten into the 2/8 holes, _a, a, a_, &c., made in the lid, I J. When the two pins and the bolts of the observation-frame have been adjusted and fixed, the groove in it will be in a straight line with one of the grooves formed in the bottom board of the box, consequently a bee-frame can be made to slide, by means of the long spindle, in and out of the box, into the observation-frame.
W. Augustus Munn's 1844 pamphlet presents his bar-and-frame-hive as a deliberate improvement over common hives, supported by a detailed plate description that itemizes every component—from the oblong box and gable ends to the perforated zinc ventilator and the observation-frame's back bolt. The work is explicitly a response to repeated requests for explanation, and Munn frames it as a practical guide rather than a natural history treatise.
The text is structured in two distinct parts: Munn's own description of the hive and its advantages, followed by an abstract of Wildman's bee-management book. This dual structure means the reader encounters both original design specifications and inherited practical wisdom, sometimes in the same paragraph.
Hive Construction and the Role of the Plate
The opening pages are dominated by a meticulous explanation of Plate I, Figure 1. Munn labels every part of the hive with letters and coordinates—A B C D E F for the oblong box, Q Q for the quadrants supporting the table, and a a a for fifteen holes receiving the back bolt of the observation-frame. The description is so granular that it reads like a set of assembly instructions, yet it is embedded in a continuous prose paragraph rather than a numbered list.
This level of detail suggests that the plate itself was essential to the pamphlet's purpose. Munn assumes his reader has the illustration at hand and refers to it constantly. The text does not explain why each part works; it simply names and locates it. For a modern reader, the plate becomes a necessary companion, and the pamphlet's value lies partly in how it documents a specific material object from mid-19th-century beekeeping.
Wildman's Instructions on Honey and Wax
The abstract of Wildman's guide occupies a substantial portion of the pamphlet and is presented as direct quotation. Wildman's voice is markedly different from Munn's: it is prescriptive and procedural, with detailed steps for separating honey from wax. He instructs the reader to work in a warm, closed room to prevent bees from entering, and to set aside combs containing brood because they would give the honey a bad flavour.
Wildman also distinguishes between grades of honey. The finest is obtained by draining combs without pressing, while the remainder is squeezed and reserved for feeding bees. The wax is purified through repeated boiling and pressing. These instructions reveal a practical economy where nothing is wasted, and they implicitly acknowledge that honey quality varies by source—heather honey and labiate plants are praised, while the rhododendron ponticum is noted as potentially harmful, though not yet a problem in England.
Protective Gear and the Gendered Division of Labour
A striking passage in Wildman's abstract addresses the dangers of extracting honey. He recommends buckskin gloves covered with worsted gloves extending to the elbows, and a wire gauze net for the face. Then he adds: "The only protection necessary for gentlemen,—for ladies, I presume, would never venture to undertake the dangerous task of extracting the honey combs from hives or boxes."
This remark, though brief, reveals an assumed gender division in beekeeping practice. The pamphlet does not challenge or explain this assumption; it simply records it as a matter of course. The passage also underscores the physical risk involved in the work, which the detailed protective measures are meant to mitigate. Together with the precise hive design, these practical concerns ground the pamphlet in the realities of 19th-century apiculture rather than in abstract natural history.
Readers approaching this pamphlet should be prepared for a hybrid text: part inventor's specification, part compiled manual. The bar-and-frame-hive itself is never fully evaluated in the excerpts—Munn asserts its advantages but does not provide comparative data. The value of the work today lies less in its beekeeping advice (much of which has been superseded) and more in its documentation of a specific moment when hive design was becoming more systematic, and when the craft of beekeeping was beginning to be written down in explicit, illustrated form.
Munn’s hive drawings remind me of patience—waiting, as bees do, for the right flower. Years later, I found that same sweetness scattered across Texas Honey Plants — A Reader’s Guide, where blossoms are named like old friends. Their quiet kinship is the hum beneath my shelves.
Leo Mitchell
2 weeks ago-
Stacy Christopher Ortiz - 2 weeks ago
{'rating': 3, 'text': "This book provides a good overview of beekeeping with bar and frame hives, with useful seasonal tips. However, the language is somewhat archaic, and some of the practices are outdated. It would benefit from a modern edition with updated information and clearer diagrams. Still, it's a unique historical reference that beekeeping enthusiasts may appreciate."} -
Johnathan Williams - 1 week ago
{'rating': 5, 'text': "A delightful and informative read for any beekeeper, especially those using bar and frame hives. This book offers practical advice on hive management throughout the year, based on Wildman's original work. The descriptions are clear, and the historical context adds depth. It's a must-have for understanding the foundations of modern beekeeping and for gaining valuable insights into bee behavior."} -
Francisco Rosales - 1 week ago
{'rating': 2, 'text': "A tedious read with little practical value for today's beekeeper. The information is presented in a dry, outdated style, and the author spends too much time on obsolete methods. The abstract of Wildman's guide is poorly integrated, making the text disjointed. There are far more practical and modern beekeeping manuals available. Not recommended."}
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